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Fence Post Spacing Guide

Fence Post Spacing, Depth and Installation Guide

Fence posts are the foundation of every fence. Get the spacing wrong and panels will not fit. Set them too shallow and the fence blows over in the first storm. This guide covers everything you need to know about post spacing, depth, materials, and installation technique.

Spacing by Panel Width

Panel Width Post Spacing (centre to centre) Posts per 10m Run Notes
1.83m (6ft) 1.83m 7 Most common panel size
1.8m (metric) 1.8m 7 Metric equivalent, slightly narrower
1.5m (5ft) 1.5m 8 Used for shorter fences
2.4m (ranch rail) 2.4m 6 Open-rail fences only
3.0m (post and rail) 3.0m 5 Agricultural and rural boundaries

The rule is simple: post spacing equals panel width. Every panel sits between two posts, and you always need one more post than the number of panels. A 10m fence with 1.83m panels needs 6 panels and 7 posts.

Post Depth by Fence Height

Fence Height Minimum Post Depth Recommended Depth (exposed site) Total Post Length Needed
0.6m (2ft) 300mm 400mm 1.0m
0.9m (3ft) 450mm 500mm 1.5m
1.2m (4ft) 500mm 600mm 1.8m
1.5m (5ft) 550mm 650mm 2.1m
1.8m (6ft) 600mm 750mm 2.4m
2.0m (6.5ft) 650mm 800mm 2.7m

The one-third rule is the standard: bury at least one-third of the total post length underground. Wind is the biggest enemy of a fence, and the below-ground section provides the leverage to resist it. A 1.8m fence in an exposed coastal or hilltop location should use 750mm depth minimum.

Post Material Comparison

Material Cost per Post Lifespan Weight Rot Resistance Best For
Dip-treated softwood EUR 5-10 5-10 years Light Low Temporary fences, budget projects
Pressure-treated softwood EUR 8-18 15-25 years Light High Most garden fences
Hardwood (oak) EUR 20-40 20-30 years Medium Very high Premium fences, heritage properties
Concrete EUR 15-30 50+ years Heavy Immune Permanent boundaries, windy sites
Galvanised steel EUR 25-45 25-40 years Light Immune (if coating intact) Modern fences, composite panels

Pressure-treated softwood posts are the best all-round choice. They balance cost, durability, and ease of handling. Concrete posts are worth the extra weight for permanent boundaries where you never want to replace a post again.

Installation Step by Step

Follow these steps for a straight, solid fence line:

  1. Mark the line — Drive a stake at each end of the fence run and stretch a string line between them. This is your reference for every post.
  2. Mark post positions — Measure along the string line and mark each post position with a spray dot or small stake. Double-check that panel widths fit between marks.
  3. Dig the first end post hole — Dig to the required depth (see table above) and 300mm diameter. Keep the sides vertical.
  4. Set the first end post — Place the post in the hole, check plumb with a spirit level on two adjacent faces, and fill with Postcrete or concrete. Brace with scrap timber.
  5. Set the last end post — Repeat at the other end of the fence run.
  6. Run the string line — Attach a new string line between the two set posts at the top. This guides all intermediate posts.
  7. Set intermediate posts — Working from one end, dig each hole, set the post so it just touches the string line, check plumb, and fill with concrete. Brace each post.
  8. Wait for concrete to set — Postcrete sets in 5-10 minutes. Standard concrete needs 24-48 hours before you hang panels.
  9. Install gravel boards — Fit gravel boards between posts at ground level to protect panel bases from rot.
  10. Hang panels — Lift each panel into position and secure with panel clips, brackets, or galvanised nails.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Mistake Consequence Prevention
Posts too shallow Fence leans or blows over Follow the one-third depth rule
No string line used Wavy, crooked fence line Always set end posts first and run a string line
Concrete above ground level Traps water against the post, accelerating rot Keep concrete 25mm below ground level and slope it away from the post
No gravel boards Panel base rots from ground contact Fit gravel boards to every bay
Hanging panels before concrete sets Posts shift out of plumb Wait for full cure (10 min for Postcrete, 24h for concrete)
No post caps Rain soaks into end grain, causing splits and rot Fit a post cap to every post

Postcrete vs Standard Concrete

Feature Postcrete (fast-set) Standard Concrete (mixed)
Cost per post EUR 5-8 EUR 2-4
Setting time 5-10 minutes 24-48 hours
Strength Good for standard fences Stronger for gates and tall fences
Ease of use Pour dry mix, add water Mix cement, sand, gravel, then pour
Best for DIY, most garden fences Large projects, heavy-duty posts

Postcrete is the go-to choice for garden fence posts. It is faster, easier, and eliminates the need for a cement mixer. For gate posts and fences over 2m tall, standard concrete provides a more substantial foundation.

These calculations are estimates only. Actual requirements may vary depending on surface conditions, product specifications, and installation methods. Always consult a qualified professional for precise measurements.

Prices updated: 2026-03

Frequently Asked Questions

Post spacing must match the panel width. For standard 1.83m (6ft) panels, space posts at 1.83m centre-to-centre. For post-and-rail fencing without panels, the maximum recommended spacing is 2.4m-3.0m depending on rail length and wind exposure.
Bury at least one-third of the total post length. For a 1.8m fence with 2.4m posts, the hole should be 600mm deep. In exposed or windy locations, increase depth to 750mm. The hole diameter should be at least 300mm to allow room for concrete.
Postcrete (fast-set post mix) is ideal for most garden fences — it sets in 10 minutes and one 20kg bag fills one post hole. Standard concrete (mixed from cement, sand, and gravel) is cheaper for large projects and gives a stronger foundation for heavy gates or tall fences.
Pressure-treated wooden posts are the most popular and cost-effective. Concrete posts are the most durable (50+ years) and rot-proof but heavier and harder to install. Metal posts are strong and slim but can rust without proper galvanising and cost 2-3 times more than timber.
Set the two end posts first using a spirit level on two faces. Run a string line between them at the top. Set intermediate posts so they just touch the string line, checking each with a spirit level before the concrete sets. Use temporary braces (scrap timber nailed to the post and staked to the ground) to hold posts plumb while concrete cures.
Dip-treated softwood posts last 5-10 years. Pressure-treated softwood lasts 15-25 years. Hardwood (oak) lasts 20-30 years. Concrete posts last 50+ years. Metal (galvanised steel) lasts 25-40 years. The below-ground section always rots first because it stays damp.

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